The link was also posted in the kendama discord. Looks like the flex seal started peeling off the tama somehow (a bamboo tama) If it’s done right I bet it’ll be more durable than that though, if only marginally.
Hi Josh! I don't have the issue with the Bearing; Mac has that issue. @MacCole999 Check Josh's message out!
Dama Hacks? Hmm... If you want to get your bevel moist for stalls but have a hygienic problem with licking your bevel or rubbing your sweat into the bevel, take a small atomizer/spray bottle and fill it up with water. When you need to get your bevel wet, take out the bottle and spray the bevel a few times. Don't take my word for it; I believe SuLab's already selling this as a product.
Cooper Eddy was supposed to be coming up with something as well. I had thought about a heady pendant that holds water and has a spongy tip to apply a dab to the bevel..I think his idea was something similar without the pendant part..
Cooper Eddy was supposed to be coming up with something as well. I had thought about a heady pendant that holds water and has a spongy tip to apply a dab to the bevel..I think his idea was something similar without the pendant part..
@MacCole999 you we’re asking about something to put on your dotburst tama to make it tackier, I was suggested this a while back, never tried but see that it’s been successful with one member at least
Here is my short review of the flowable silicone. I applied it to my Sol Kothar tama. *Disclaimer - I didn’t let it cure for the full 24 hours because I got impatient. Also, I did a pretty poor job of applying it and just used a paint brush. Pros: 1. It is by far the grippiest paint I have ever played. I have jammed with over 20 types of paint. It doesn’t compare very well to any paint, but it’s kind of like an extra grippy cushion clear. The lunar madness was fun to mess around with. 2. Very cheap project. It only cost me 5 bucks from Advanced Auto Parts with an online coupon. Cons: 1. It’s messy! I think I have decided to leave painting tamas to the pros. I made a mess and ruined some clothes. 2. Consider my disclaimer, but the durability was terrible. After 20 minutes of jamming the silicone was peeling pretty badly around the bevel. It drove me crazy, and I peeled it all off, which only took about a minute. 3. It was too grippy for my taste. Lighthouses toppled consistently and micro adjustments were hard. I think I could get used to it, but it would make a fresh silk tama feel like ice. Flowable Silicone Potential: Somebody should find a way to dilute the flowable silicone so that it can be sprayed from a pump bottle. I think also mixing in some sort of adhesive and spraying a couple coats onto a natty tama (with a full cure) could be pretty wild.
Don't like the hole just get a wine cork and trim it to a bit bigger than the hole so it pushes against the walls to hold itself in. That way you don't add a bunch of weight to the basecup.
Usually drilling out the hole nets about 3-5g (full size natural cork is about 3g) so I was thinking just about just filling the hole rather than weight distribution too much. For weight changes I have a more involved surgery I use.