I was wondering if anyone could hook me up with some kendama blueprints/ modelsheets to use as a reference? I wanna get back into 3D modeling and thought a kendama would be a cool project to start with.
Also, can anyone tell me how deep the cups should be for a standard kendama? should they fit the shape of the tama perfectly or do they actually go deeper?
@ilivir i never finished that project of mine. My legs got better so I started playing dama more. If you would like the files I can hand them over to you.
Just grab your favorite dama and measure it. I made models of my Sweets F3 and Homegrown Next Gen in SolidWorks. I just used some calipers and a ruler for the approximate measurements. I haven’t actually made any drawings for the models, but I could fairly easily if that’s of interest to anyone. Here’s one I 3D printed one at 1/3 scale.
Looks nice!! Yeah I'll do it like you suggested, maybe make a detailed drawing first and then continue in 3DsMax. If I have something worth sharing, I'll do it here.
Can anyone tell me if the sarado hole is actually tapered? Or does it just become like that because of pushing the cups? It's like 1mm difrence at the bottem compared to the top. *Summoning woodworking wizard @htimSxelA
...who's probably on his way to mko and will never see this. Anyway here's a what I got so far. First sketch
When I modeled mine, I made the hole tapered as you described. There is still an interference fit with the taper of the spike at least from my measurements anyway.
From what material will you be printing the kendama? I've read most of the normal material isn't very good with stress and I'd imagine kendama impacts would fall under that description. Side7Studio's @DPatten has done some using SLS IIRC.
The taper of the hole should match the taper of the spike, so it'll just depend on the spike profile. So, normally the hole is tapered
Interesting, that's what I thought, just didn't quite understand how that is being done ..well a tapered drill bit I guess : )
Not sure if I will print it, but maybe I will. I think the cheapest printing materials are polyamide and resin but I have to investigate which one works best.
A tapered drill bit will work, you'll just need one to match the taper of the spike. They can be expensive!
How do you usually cut out that hole? do you use a set size of a tapered drill bit, or do you have many angles and sizes?
I need someone who can help me get some prototyping done (get paper blueprints converted to 3D).... I have a very cool project in the works if y'all know how to help me it would be appreciated.